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September 5, 2008

Aug 21st 2008 Thursday, Moir huts >> Lava Tower 15000 ft

We left Moir huts to head towards Lava Tower at about 8.20am. We had a straight climb right away and a long 5 hrs walk ahead. The previous night was bitterly cold. The headache was not subsiding and we had to pop a 'Dytor' last evening. The tablet makes you use the loo a lot and trust me, it does make you go. We got into bed at 8pm, and I was up at 10pm, 11.05pm, 12am, 3am and 4.30am. 5 times in one night in the bitter cold. It was absolutely chilly in the wee hours of the morning. The medicine did help the headache, when I woke up this morning the uncomfortable nagging headache was gone. Jen's stomach bug is still not completely gone, she was up a few time during the night too.

The scene outside the camp is pretty this morning. The top of the mountain has cleared up and we can see the snow level. When we look outside our tent we can see the valley below, yesterday was cloudy but today there is more visibility as you can see from the photos below.


With the cold and the altitude, we barely nibble on breakfast. I know it's not a good thing, we need the food for the energy but it was a tough morning. The walk was slow and tough. Jen definitely lacking in strength now - no food inside her. It's sunny and cloudy this morning and there is a very cold wind blowing. We are carrying some lovely museli bars in our day packs, so they come in handy to get a bit of energy during the hike.


About half way up this trail we join the trail from the Machame route. We are ascending from the western slopes of the mountain, the Machame route comes in from the southern slopes. We stop multiple times today, the going is slow, but we manage to get to our next camp at Lava Tower by noon. It's at 15,000 ft. The air is thin outside and I am completely exhausted. We grab a quick lunch and I'm lying flat on my back within minutes. No energy to get out of my hiking pants or to remove my socks or lay the sleeping bags out. I just about manage to take off my shoes and lay on the tent floor instantaneously. We can really feel the altitude now, breathing is heavy, even to just sit up from a lying down position.

The people on the Machame route use this camp site as their afternoon acclimatization stop. There are loads of people here, loud and noisy. Both Jen and I are lying down and trying to get as much rest as possible, the other people will eventually head down to their night camp within the hour.

This is a super campsite. The views are breathtaking when we are outside the tent. Jen - no lunch - which is a cause for worry now. She seems tired and dehydrated. Hardly any breakfast for her and no lunch, this cannot be good news. The altitude is becoming a factor and we cannot let things get worse. 1-3.30pm we nap. O is sick too, he threw up a few times upon reaching this camp. He is tired too and complains of headaches.

At 3.30, M and I go with Justin for our afternoon acclimatization walk. Just an hour's walk up about 200-300 ft to get used to the altitude and lack in air pressure. O and Jen are not in any position to want to join us. Justin comes into our tent just before the walk to check on Jen. Doesn't see anything he likes, he says we may need to take a call on Jen by this evening. Jen has had the stomach bug for four days now, not been eating much, hasn't been able to keep whatever her intake is inside her. The easy climbs are behind us and the steep climbs, the cold weather and the tough days are now ahead of us. Without Jen recovering, the next few days are very much a big question mark. Jen is sound asleep, drained beyond her imagination.

One Eldoper, along with one Dolo 650 and a half pack of Electrol goes into Jen. We need to get her on her feet again. The acclimatization walk is good, we go up the hill ahead of us that we will be climbing tomorrow. The views are fantastic from there but I was too tired to take my camera along to capture the views. When I return, Jen is still out like a log, cold and tired and wrapped up in her sleeping bag. It's only 4.30pm now. I am even more exhausted, my movements are slow and deliberate. I change and try to get some shut-eye before dinner at 6.30pm. I need this rest very badly. Writing in this diary is a herculean task, I force myself to pen a few words down.

Dinner is yummy, at least for me. We have beef pilav (beef with rice), soup, bread, vegetables. Jen eats a bit of the pilav. GOOD, VERY GOOD. I'm elated to see her eating a bit. A bit more energy in her it seems, she is even talking a bit more now. O eats a bit and brings it all out again, that can't be good news. We pop a Dytor each and are in our sleeping bags by 7.30pm. Our thermals are on and it is cold, the sun has just set and it's getting a bit windy now. I have multiple bathroom breaks at 9pm, 11pm and 3am . The water in the loo is frozen.

*** jen's outakes ***
Today's hike was long, tiring and took most of my strength. I don't have enough energy to write today. Actually, I don't have any energy, except to sleep and sip some water. I am a bit worried that I may not make it...but Arun is constantly giving me words of encouragement, so that's helping.

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